Shabu Shabu Morishima, a shabu-shabu restaurant in Okinawa.
Her friends joined us, making four of us for shabu-shabu and drinks. Perhaps because the restaurant had moved, there was no sign, so it was not easy to find, and the surrounding area was quiet. Once inside, however, I was surprised to find every seat taken. I was glad we had booked. The food was full of care, and the dessert was so cute that it almost felt a shame to eat it.
At Morishima, the broth catches your attention from the outset. Rausu kombu from Hokkaido, bonito from Kyushu, and grilled flying fish form the foundation that supports the flavor of Agu pork. The combination suggests an effort to build layers of umami and bring out the meat’s sweetness.
The signature course features Agu pork belly, loin, shoulder, and tsukune meatballs. From a food critic’s perspective, the differences in texture and fat between the cuts are especially interesting. Even in the same broth, the grain of the meat and its fat content change the impression of each bite. The course offers a chance to explore those subtle differences in sequence.
Homemade savory salt, yuzu kosho, Kyoto-style kuroshichimi, and ponzu provide changes of pace. I suggest first concentrating on the broth and meat together, then adding the condiments a little at a time. Comparing how acidity and spices change the pork’s flavor is part of the pleasure. Morishima’s menu invites a meal in which you savor each piece slowly.
Price impression: Moderate.
